Roofing questions, answered

Closed-cell foam is dense and rigid, absorbs very little water and has the compressive strength to handle a roof surface. Open-cell foam is softer and more absorbent, which suits some interior insulation uses but not an exposed roof. Roofing-grade foam is made specifically for this job.

Yes. Foam is sprayed up to and around the skylight curb, and the curb is flashed and coated like other penetrations. The skylight itself has to be protected from overspray during the work, and if the skylight is old or cracked, it makes sense to swap it out first.

Scuppers are cleaned out, their flashing is checked or replaced and the foam is shaped so water flows into them instead of ponding in front of them. The coating is carried into the scupper opening and reinforced where needed. Since adding foam raises the roof surface, the scupper opening has to stay low enough to drain.

Foam is typically carried up the parapet's inner wall, and sometimes over the top, so there's no open joint where the roof meets the wall. The coating covers it all as one surface. Cracked stucco or a failed parapet cap still has to be fixed, because water entering the wall from above can get behind the roof.

Yes. Foam can be built up into a small sloped ridge, called a cricket, on the high side of a unit or curb so water moves around it toward a drain. This is one of the ways foam handles drainage problems that are hard to fix with sheet roofing.

Because foam raises the roof surface, the drain has to be detailed so water still runs into it, sometimes by adjusting or extending the drain or tapering the foam down to it. The drain is also cleaned and checked. A drain that ends up higher than the roof around it will leave water standing.

Not by itself. More thickness adds insulation and can build slope, but the foam still has to bond well, be sprayed in proper passes and be fully coated. A well-applied roof at the specified thickness beats a thick layer installed poorly.

Often, yes. Foam and coatings have temperature and moisture limits set by the manufacturer, and winter mornings with dew or cold surfaces may shorten the working day. Dry, mild winter weather can actually be a good time for foam work in the Valley.

Wind carries fine overspray, which can land on cars, windows and neighboring buildings, and it can also affect how evenly the foam goes on. Crews watch wind conditions and stop or adjust when it picks up. That's one reason a foam schedule can shift by a day.

A coating applied too thin often wears through early, showing the foam texture or color within a few years. Thin areas may look uneven or chalk faster than the rest of the roof. Checking thickness during application is the best way to avoid it.

Ask technicians to use the walkway pads, avoid dragging tools or parts across the roof and not set sharp equipment or panels directly on the coating. If there are no walkway pads on the route to the unit, adding them is worth discussing. Any gouges or punctures should be repaired soon after.

Have it repaired soon, before water and UV can work into the foam. A small puncture is usually a quick fix: the damaged spot is cleaned, filled or sealed and recoated with compatible materials. Call us at 602-548-3770, and if we don't answer, leave a message and we'll return your call within 24 hours.

Many sealants aren't compatible with foam or with the coating on the roof, especially silicone, and they can peel away or trap water. A mismatched patch can also make the next recoat harder. Repairs should use materials matched to the existing system.

All roofs grow slightly in afternoon heat and shrink back at night. Roofing foam is dimensionally stable, and the elastomeric coating stretches and recovers with that daily movement. Structural joints in the building that move more than that need special detailing.

Only after the leak's source and any wet material are found and dealt with. An active leak usually means moisture inside the existing roof, and wet material has to be removed before foam goes on. Spraying over it would trap the water.

A primer is a thin layer that helps the next material bond to a surface, used where the substrate or product requires it. A base coat is the first full layer of the coating system, applied over the foam before the top coat. Not every system uses both.

Constant drips and overflow from a cooler keep one area of the roof wet and can leave mineral deposits, which wears the coating faster. Keeping the cooler's float and lines in good repair and directing its water to a drain helps. The area around the cooler deserves a close look at every inspection.

Yes. Areas with weathered, eroded or damaged foam can get new foam while sound areas are simply cleaned, repaired and recoated. The whole roof then gets a continuous coating so there are no weak transitions.

Edges see more movement and stress where the roof meets parapets, curbs and transitions, and coating there may also be thinner. Foot traffic and older flashing add to it. Edge cracks should be cleaned, repaired and recoated before water gets behind them.

Long enough for the coating to cure, which varies with the product, thickness, temperature and humidity. The crew will tell you when the roof can handle normal service traffic again. Keeping technicians off fresh coating avoids footprints and damage.

Foam should be coated within the time window the manufacturer specifies, which is short, because UV starts affecting bare foam right away. Crews usually plan the work so foam and the base coat go on close together. Foam left uncoated too long may have to be prepared again before coating.

Often, yes. Foam can be sprayed slightly thicker toward the high end so water runs off instead of sitting. The patio cover's framing has to be sound, and the joint where it meets the house needs careful flashing.

When the coating is close to worn out, it's usually smart to recoat first, because recoating under panels later is harder and may require removing them. A roof with plenty of coating life left may only need an inspection and minor repairs before the installers start.

Yes, and many Valley homes do. The flat sections get foam and coating, while the tile roof keeps its own underlayment and flashing. The transition where the two meet needs careful work so water from the tile roof flows onto the foam instead of under it.

Spray foam naturally cures with a slightly bumpy texture, and roofers use it to judge application quality. A smooth to orange-peel texture is generally what you want, while very coarse or popcorn-like texture can trap water and be harder to coat. The coating follows the texture, so it's part of the finished look.

Most Arizona roof leaks come from worn underlayment under tile, failed flashing, and cracked sealant around roof penetrations. Cracked or slipped tiles, lifted shingles and worn coatings on flat roofs are also common. Many of these problems stay hidden until a monsoon storm drives water into them.

The clearest signs are ceiling stains, bubbling or peeling paint, damp insulation, and drips during or after rain. A musty smell in a closet or upstairs room can also point to a slow leak. After a storm, check the attic with a flashlight for wet wood or dark spots on the underside of the roof deck.

Yes, many leaks can be repaired without a full replacement. Localized problems such as a cracked pipe boot, a few broken tiles or a failed flashing joint are usually straightforward repairs. If the underlayment has failed across large areas, though, spot repairs tend not to hold and a larger project makes more sense.

Protect your home's interior first: move belongings, set out buckets and towels, and keep people away from any ceiling that is sagging with water. Take photos of the leak and any damage. Then call a licensed roofer, and do not go up on a wet roof yourself.

No, leave roof access to trained roofers. Tile cracks underfoot, shingles can be slick, and falls from roofs cause serious injuries every year. You can safely check from the ground with binoculars and from inside the attic instead.

Monsoon storms bring wind-driven rain that pushes water sideways and upward into gaps that ordinary rain never reaches. They also dump a lot of water quickly, which can overwhelm valleys, scuppers and worn flashing. A roof that stays dry in a light winter rain can still leak in a strong monsoon.

Water often travels before it shows up. It can run along the underlayment, roof decking or rafters for several feet and then drip onto the ceiling somewhere else. That is why finding the true entry point usually takes an experienced roofer looking both on the roof and in the attic.

Many roof repairs take a few hours to a full day. Larger repairs, such as replacing underlayment on one slope of a tile roof, can take several days. Weather, material availability and roof access all affect the schedule.

Yes, a roof leak can lead to mold even in a dry climate. Wet insulation, drywall and wood in a closed attic can stay damp long enough for mold to grow. If you find a leak, dry the area and have the cause repaired quickly.

It depends on the condition of the whole roof, not just its age. If the underlayment and roofing material still have useful life, a repair can be a smart choice. If you are facing repeated leaks across different areas, a roof inspection can help you decide whether repair or replacement is the better use of money.

A repair that fixes the underlying cause, such as replacing damaged underlayment and flashing, can last for many years. A repair that only smears sealant over the surface may last a season or two in Arizona sun. Ask your roofer exactly what the repair includes so you know which kind you are getting.

Leaks around vent pipes usually come from a cracked rubber pipe boot or failed sealant. Arizona heat and UV dry out rubber and caulk, which then shrink and split. On tile roofs, the flashing around the pipe can also shift or corrode over time.

Roofing cement or caulk is a temporary fix at best. Sealants break down quickly under Arizona sun and can hide the real problem while water keeps getting in. A proper repair addresses the flashing, underlayment or roofing material that actually failed.

Valleys carry a large share of a roof's water, so any weakness there shows up quickly. Common causes include debris that dams water, worn valley flashing, poorly cut tiles and aged underlayment beneath the valley. Keeping valleys clear and having them checked during inspections helps prevent these leaks.

If water appears without rain, the source is often not the roof. Air conditioning condensate lines, evaporative coolers, rooftop units and plumbing are common culprits. A roofer can help rule the roof in or out, but you may also need an HVAC technician or plumber.

Yes, rooftop evaporative coolers are a frequent source of leaks. Overflowing pans, mineral buildup, rusted bases and worn water lines can all put water on the roof, and the stand or curb flashing can fail. Regular cooler maintenance and a roof check around the unit help prevent damage.

A proper repair starts with finding the true source of the water, not just the spot where it shows up. The roofer removes the affected roofing material, replaces damaged underlayment or flashing, and reinstalls or replaces tiles, shingles or coating. The goal is to fix the cause so the leak doesn't come back.

Often they can match closely, but not always perfectly. Older tile profiles and colors are sometimes discontinued, and new shingles may look slightly different from weathered ones. Roofers can use salvaged tiles or move matching tiles from less visible areas when an exact match isn't available.

Look at where and when the water appears. Leaks that show up at the top of a window frame during wind-driven rain may come from the window or the wall above it, while ceiling stains away from walls usually point to the roof. A roofer or window specialist can test the area to confirm the source.

Yes, birds and pests can contribute to roof leaks. Pigeons nest under tile and solar panels, leaving debris that blocks water flow, and rodents can chew vents and flashing. Bird stops at the eaves and screening under solar arrays help keep them out.

An ignored leak usually gets more expensive over time. Water can rot roof decking, ruin insulation and drywall, damage electrical components and lead to mold. Some insurance policies also exclude damage caused by long-term neglect, so prompt repairs protect you in more than one way.

Yes, roof repairs can be done in summer, though crews usually start early in the morning to avoid the worst heat. Some coatings and sealants have temperature limits for application. During monsoon season, repair work is scheduled around storms when possible.

It's usually time to replace a roof when leaks keep coming back in different places, the underlayment has failed broadly, or the roofing material is worn out. Signs include curling or bare shingles, brittle or crumbling felt under tile, and exposed or eroded foam. A professional inspection can tell you how much life is left.

Roof life in Arizona depends on the material and how it's maintained. Concrete and clay tile can last for decades, but the underlayment beneath often needs replacement after roughly 20–25 years. Asphalt shingles often last around 15–25 years in Valley heat, and foam roofs can last for decades when they are recoated on schedule.

Most residential roof replacements take a few days to about two weeks. Tile roofs, larger homes and complicated roof shapes take longer than simple shingle roofs. Weather, permit inspections and HOA approval can also affect the timeline.

The terms overlap, but a full roof replacement usually means removing the roof down to the decking and installing a new system. In Arizona, re-roofing a tile roof often refers to a re-felt, where the tiles are removed, new underlayment is installed and the same tiles go back on. Ask your roofer to define the scope in writing so you know exactly what you're getting.

Sometimes, but it's usually not the best choice. Building codes may allow a second layer of asphalt shingles, but a tear-off lets the roofer inspect and repair the decking. Tile is not layered over old roofing, while foam can sometimes be applied over an existing low-slope roof after the surface is properly prepared.

A typical roof replacement includes removing the old roofing, inspecting and repairing the decking, installing new underlayment and flashing, and installing the new roofing material. Vents and penetrations are reflashed along the way. The job ends with cleanup and any required city inspections.

You don't usually need to be home the whole time. Your roofer will need access to the property, and possibly the attic or garage at certain points. Plan to keep pets safe, move vehicles out of the driveway and be reachable by phone.

Move vehicles out of the driveway and garage, take fragile items off walls and shelves, and cover belongings stored in the attic. Move patio furniture, grills and potted plants away from the house. It's also considerate to let neighbors know about the noise and work schedule.

Yes, roof replacement is loud, especially during tear-off and fastening. Expect hammering, nail guns and debris sliding into dumpsters during working hours. People working from home or with sensitive pets may want to plan around the busiest days.

Old roofing materials are typically loaded into a dumpster or truck and hauled away. On a tile re-felt, the existing tiles are stacked and reused, and only broken tiles and old underlayment are removed. Confirm with your roofer that disposal and cleanup are included in the estimate.

Damaged decking should be replaced during a re-roof, because new roofing needs a solid base. The full extent of rot often isn't visible until the old roofing comes off. A good estimate explains how decking replacement is handled and priced if it's needed.

Fall, winter and spring are the most comfortable seasons for roof replacement in Arizona, and they avoid monsoon storm delays. Roofs can still be replaced in summer with early start times. Scheduling before monsoon season begins on June 15 is a good goal if your roof is already leaking.

Often you can, but a few things need to be checked first. Heavier materials such as tile require a structure that can carry the weight, and your HOA may limit which materials and colors you can use. A material change may also affect the permit and inspection requirements.

It's possible, but tile is much heavier than shingles, so the roof framing must be able to support it. An engineer may need to evaluate the structure before the change. Check HOA rules as well, since many communities have specific material requirements.

A new roof can make a home more appealing to buyers and help it pass inspection more smoothly. Buyers and their inspectors often flag aging roofs, which can affect negotiations. How much value it adds depends on the local market and the rest of the home.

A new roof can help lower cooling costs, especially if it includes reflective materials and better attic ventilation. Results vary depending on insulation, ductwork location and how your home was built. Ask about cool roof options and ventilation upgrades when planning the project.

The best material depends on your roof's slope, structure, budget and HOA rules. Tile is the most common choice for pitched roofs in the Valley, foam and coatings are common on flat roofs, and asphalt shingles are a lighter, lower-cost option for sloped roofs. A roofer can explain the trade-offs for your specific home.

A tear-off is the removal of existing roofing down to the roof decking. It lets the roofer inspect the deck, replace damaged wood and start the new roof on a clean surface. Most full replacements in Arizona include a tear-off.

Not always. If the roof is near the end of its life, replacing it can prevent problems during the buyer's inspection, but sometimes repairs and a professional roof inspection report are enough. An inspection before listing helps you decide.

Compare the cost and frequency of repairs against the remaining life of the roof. If repairs are isolated and the rest of the roof is sound, repairing makes sense. If problems are widespread or the underlayment is near the end of its life, replacement is usually the better long-term choice.

A full roof replacement typically includes tear-off, decking inspection and repair, new underlayment, new flashing, vents, the new roofing material and cleanup. It also includes any required permits and city inspections. A written estimate should list each of these items so you can compare bids fairly.

A properly installed sloped roof can handle rain as soon as the underlayment and roofing are in place. Foam and coated roofs need time to cure, so applications are scheduled around dry weather. During the job, roofers cover open areas if storms threaten.

A professional crew should take steps to protect plants, pools and hardscape, such as tarps over beds and careful placement of dumpsters. Some damage risk from falling debris remains, so point out delicate plants before work starts. Ask how cleanup and nail pickup are handled.

Tile roof underlayment in Arizona often lasts around 20–25 years, though sun-exposed slopes can wear out sooner. The tiles themselves usually last much longer than the underlayment beneath them. When the underlayment fails, the tiles can typically be removed and reused during a re-felt.

A re-felt is a project where the roof tiles are removed, the old underlayment is replaced with new underlayment, and the tiles are reinstalled. Broken tiles are replaced along the way. It restores the roof's waterproofing layer without buying a whole new set of tiles.

Lift and relay is another name for a re-felt. The tiles are lifted off, new underlayment is laid down, and the tiles are relaid on the roof. You may also hear it called an underlayment replacement.

A re-felt usually costs less than a full tile replacement because the existing tiles are reused. The final price depends on roof size, pitch, tile type, decking condition and how many tiles need replacing. Every roof is different, so see our Roofing Cost Guide at /resources/roofing-cost-guide/ for the factors involved.

Warning signs include leaks during storms, stains on ceilings, and brittle, cracked or crumbling felt visible at the eaves or under a lifted tile. Age is another clue: underlayment past about 20 years in Arizona deserves a professional look. Often there are no obvious signs until water gets in, which is why inspections matter.

Yes, a roofer can get a good idea of underlayment condition by looking at exposed edges and carefully lifting a few tiles in key areas. Checking the attic for stains also helps. This is a job for a trained roofer, because tiles break easily when handled or stepped on incorrectly.

Cracked tiles don't always cause an immediate leak, because the underlayment is the main waterproofing layer on a tile roof. But a broken tile exposes the underlayment to sun and direct water, which speeds up its failure. Replacing cracked tiles promptly protects the layer that actually keeps water out.

Both perform well in Arizona heat when properly installed. Concrete tile is the most common choice in the Valley and generally costs less, while clay tile holds its color well and has a classic look. Weight, appearance, budget and HOA requirements usually decide which is right for a home.

Concrete tiles fade because years of Arizona sun wear down the color on their surface. Some tiles are colored only on the surface, while others are colored through the whole tile, which hides wear better. Fading is mostly cosmetic and doesn't by itself mean the roof is failing.

Common options include traditional felt, double layers of felt, synthetic underlayment and self-adhered membranes. Each has different strength, heat resistance and price. The right choice depends on roof slope, local code, manufacturer requirements and your budget.

Synthetic underlayment is lighter and more tear resistant than felt, and it handles exposure during installation well. Not every synthetic product is rated for the high temperatures under Arizona tile, so the specific product matters. Ask your roofer which underlayment they recommend and why.

Trained roofers can walk on tile roofs by stepping on specific parts of the tiles that bear weight better, but tiles still break. Homeowners should not walk on tile roofs. Many broken tiles in the Valley come from foot traffic by people who don't know where to step.

Broken tiles often come from foot traffic by solar, satellite, HVAC or pest control technicians. Hail, falling branches, heavy debris and age can crack tiles too. Replacing them promptly keeps the underlayment protected.

Yes, individual tiles can be replaced without disturbing much of the roof. The roofer removes the broken tile, checks the underlayment beneath it and slides a new tile into place. This is a common and relatively quick repair.

If your tile has been discontinued, a roofer may use salvaged tiles, move matching tiles from a less visible area, or find a close match in profile and color. Your HOA may need to approve a substitute. Keeping a few spare tiles from your original roof helps with future repairs.

Bird stops are closure pieces installed at the eaves to fill the gaps under the first row of tile. They keep birds and pests from nesting under the tiles. Many Arizona tile roofs include them, and they can often be added later if they're missing.

Tile roofs are much heavier than shingle roofs. Standard concrete tile often weighs roughly 9–12 pounds per square foot, while lightweight tiles and some clay tiles weigh less. This weight is why a structure must be evaluated before switching from a lighter roof to tile.

Yes, tile roofs need periodic attention even though the tiles last a long time. Regular inspections, replacing broken tiles, clearing debris from valleys and checking flashing all help the underlayment last. Small maintenance items are much cheaper than repairing leak damage.

Mortar is traditionally used to set ridge and hip tiles and to fill gaps at certain roof edges. Over time mortar can crack and loosen, especially with heat cycles. Some newer installations use mechanical ridge systems instead of mortar.

Yes, tile roofs handle Arizona heat well. The air space under the tiles helps reduce heat transfer, and the tile's mass slows how quickly heat moves into the attic. Lighter tile colors reflect more sunlight.

A tile re-felt on a typical home takes several days to about two weeks. Larger roofs, steep pitches and complicated layouts take longer. Weather and city inspections can affect the schedule.

Yes, a small amount of tile breakage is normal when tiles are removed and reinstalled. Older tiles can be brittle, and some are already cracked before work starts. Replacement tiles are used for any that break, so it's helpful to know whether matching tile is still available.

Battens are strips installed on the roof deck that the tiles hang on or rest against. They hold tiles in position and can help with drainage and airflow under the tile. During a re-felt, damaged or deteriorated battens are replaced.

Yes, keeping a small stack of spare tiles is a smart idea. Tile colors and profiles change over the years, and spares make future repairs match better. Store them flat in a garage or shaded area where they won't be knocked over.

Asphalt shingles often last around 15–25 years in Arizona, which can be shorter than the rating on the package. Intense heat and UV speed up aging, and poor attic ventilation shortens shingle life further. Quality of installation and regular maintenance also make a difference.

Architectural shingles, also called dimensional or laminated shingles, are made of multiple layers bonded together. They are thicker and heavier than basic 3-tab shingles and have a more textured look. They generally hold up better to wind and weather.

Three-tab shingles are still available but are less common than architectural shingles. They are thinner, lighter and have a flat, uniform appearance. In Arizona's climate, many homeowners choose architectural shingles for their added durability.

Shingles curl as they age, lose oils and dry out in the heat. Poor attic ventilation, which traps heat under the roof, can speed this up. Installation problems can also play a role, and curling shingles are more vulnerable to wind and leaks.

Granules protect the asphalt in a shingle from UV damage, so heavy granule loss means the shingle is wearing out. You may notice bare spots on the roof or piles of granules where downspouts drain. Hail can also knock granules loose, leaving round marks.

Yes, strong monsoon gusts can lift and tear off shingles, especially older ones or shingles that never sealed properly. Exposed areas let water reach the underlayment and decking. Missing shingles should be replaced quickly, before the next storm.

Yes, individual shingles can usually be replaced. The roofer removes damaged pieces, installs new ones and makes sure they seal to the surrounding shingles. New shingles may look a bit different from weathered ones at first.

Asphalt shingles can be a good, cost-effective choice for sloped roofs in Phoenix. They are lighter than tile and come in many colors, including reflective options. The trade-off is a shorter lifespan in extreme heat, so proper attic ventilation is especially important.

Cool roof shingles use specially reflective granules to bounce more sunlight off the roof. They can lower roof surface temperatures compared to standard dark shingles. Product ratings from the Cool Roof Rating Council help compare options.

Blisters usually appear when moisture or gases trapped in the shingle expand in high heat. Poor attic ventilation makes them more likely. When blisters pop, they leave bare spots that wear faster.

Asphalt shingles generally need a slope of at least 2:12, and slopes between 2:12 and 4:12 usually require extra underlayment protection. On flatter roofs, shingles can't shed water quickly enough. Low-slope roofs are better suited to foam, coatings or other flat roof systems.

Building codes typically limit a roof to two layers of asphalt shingles. Even when a second layer is allowed, tearing off the old roof is usually better because it lets the roofer inspect and repair the decking. Extra layers also add weight and can hide problems.

Good attic ventilation lets heat escape from under the roof, which helps shingles last longer. Without it, shingles bake from below as well as above. Many shingle manufacturers also specify ventilation requirements for their products.

Yes, shingles can be installed in summer, and the heat helps their seal strips bond. Crews typically start early to avoid the hottest hours and take care not to scuff softened shingles. Monsoon storms may require schedule changes.

Lighter colors and reflective shingles absorb less heat than dark colors. That can reduce attic temperatures and help shingles age more slowly. Your HOA may limit color choices, so check its approved options.

Underlayment, either felt or synthetic, goes over the roof decking beneath the shingles. Self-adhered membranes are often used in valleys and around penetrations for added protection. Drip edge and starter strips are installed at the edges.

Algae streaks are uncommon on shingles in the dry desert climate. Dark streaks on Valley shingle roofs are more often dirt, debris stains or areas of granule loss. A roofer can tell you whether discoloration is cosmetic or a sign of wear.

Hail damage on shingles often looks like dark, round spots where granules were knocked off, or soft bruises in the shingle. Dented gutters, vents and patio furniture are clues that hail was strong enough to cause damage. A roofer can confirm hail damage during an inspection.

A ridge vent is a continuous vent along the peak of the roof that lets hot air escape from the attic. It works with intake vents at the eaves to keep air moving. Ridge caps are installed over it so it blends into the roof line.

Drip edge is metal flashing installed along roof edges to direct water away from the fascia. It helps protect the edge of the decking and supports the first row of shingles. Building codes commonly require it on shingle roofs.

A spray foam roof is made of spray polyurethane foam that goes on as a liquid and expands into a solid, seamless layer. A protective coating is then applied over the foam to shield it from UV. Foam roofs are common on flat and low-slope roofs in Arizona.

Foam roofs are popular in Arizona because they insulate well, are seamless and handle the sun when kept coated. They are lightweight and can be shaped to improve drainage on flat roofs. A reflective top coating also helps reduce heat gain.

A foam roof can last for decades when it is recoated on a regular schedule. The top coating wears away over time while protecting the foam underneath. Roofs that go too long without recoating can deteriorate quickly.

Foam roofs typically need recoating every several years, depending on the coating type and thickness. Some coatings are designed to last longer than others. Regular inspections are the best way to time a recoat before the foam is exposed.

Without its protective coating, foam breaks down under UV and begins to erode. Damaged foam can absorb water, lose insulation value and eventually need to be removed and replaced. Recoating on time is far less involved than replacing the foam.

Signs include worn or chalky coating, thin spots, cracks, and foam showing through in yellow, orange or brown patches. Bare areas where granules have worn away are another clue. A roofer can measure coating condition and recommend timing.

Often, yes. Foam can frequently be applied over an existing low-slope roof after the surface is cleaned, prepared and checked for trapped moisture. Wet or damaged areas must be removed first so the foam adheres properly.

Spray polyurethane roofing foam is commonly rated at roughly R-6 per inch of thickness. The total insulating value depends on how thick the foam is applied. This added insulation is one reason foam roofs can help with cooling costs.

Yes, birds sometimes peck at foam roofs, especially where the coating is thin or foam is exposed. Small holes can let water in if they aren't repaired. Keeping the coating in good condition, often with embedded granules, makes the surface less attractive to birds.

Foam roofs can handle light foot traffic, but they can be punctured or crushed by sharp objects and heavy loads. Service technicians should walk carefully and avoid dragging equipment. Walkway pads can be added in high-traffic areas such as around HVAC units.

Blisters on a foam roof usually come from moisture trapped during application or a loss of adhesion between layers. They can grow and crack in the heat. A roofer can cut out the blistered area, refill it with foam and recoat it.

Foam roofs can be applied with extra thickness in low areas to improve drainage. If water still ponds, it can wear down the coating and shorten the roof's life. Addressing ponding during a recoat or repair helps the roof last longer.

The most common foam roof coatings are acrylic, silicone and urethane. Each offers different levels of UV resistance, ponding resistance and durability. The best choice depends on your roof's drainage, traffic and budget.

Granules are embedded in the top coating to add UV protection and make the surface tougher. They help the roof resist foot traffic, bird pecking and hail. They also add texture that makes the roof less slippery.

Yes, foam roofs are relatively easy to repair. Damaged areas are cut out, filled with new foam and coated to match. Catching damage early keeps repairs small.

Closed-cell foam resists water, and the seamless application leaves few places for leaks to start. The coating protects the foam from UV and adds another layer of protection. Keeping the coating intact is key to keeping the roof watertight.

Many residential foam roofs can be installed in a few days. Commercial roofs take longer depending on size. Wind, temperature and moisture all affect when foam can be sprayed.

Overspray can happen if foam or coating drifts in the wind. Experienced crews monitor wind conditions, mask nearby surfaces and move vehicles out of the area. Work is paused when wind makes spraying unsafe.

Foam needs a dry surface and suitable humidity to bond properly, so monsoon moisture can cause delays. Crews often work early in the day and watch forecasts closely. Coatings also need time to cure before rain.

No, foam roofs are very lightweight compared to tile and many other roofing systems. This makes them a practical option for re-roofing many flat roofs. It also means less load on the building structure.

A recoat cleans the roof, repairs damaged foam and applies a fresh protective coating over the existing foam. A replacement removes the foam and builds a new roof from the substrate up. Recoating on time is what helps a foam roof avoid early replacement.

Foam roofs can help reduce cooling costs because they add insulation directly on top of the roof deck. A reflective coating also lowers how much heat the roof absorbs. Actual savings depend on the building, insulation and HVAC system.

Common flat roof systems in Arizona include spray foam, built-up roofs, modified bitumen and single-ply membranes. Many of these are protected with reflective coatings. The best option depends on the building, drainage and budget.

No, flat roofs are built with a slight slope so water can drain. Codes generally call for at least a quarter inch of slope per foot for most low-slope roofs. Areas that sag or lose slope can collect standing water.

Ponding water is water that stays on a flat roof long after rain, often defined as standing for more than 48 hours. You may see dried rings of dirt where it collected. It points to low spots or drainage problems.

Ponding water adds weight, wears down coatings and seams, and can eventually find its way through the roof. It also collects dirt and debris that block drains. Correcting low spots or improving drainage helps the roof last longer.

An elastomeric roof coating is a flexible liquid coating that stretches and returns to shape as the roof expands and contracts. In Arizona, it is often applied in white to reflect sunlight. It protects the roof surface from UV and weather.

Acrylic coatings are water-based, cost-effective and reflective, but they don't tolerate ponding water as well. Silicone coatings handle ponding water better and resist UV well, but they tend to hold dirt and can be harder to recoat with other materials later. Your roof's drainage and future maintenance plans help decide which fits best.

A coating can help, but only after existing problems are repaired. Coating over wet insulation, open seams or damaged areas traps the problem underneath. Proper preparation and repairs come first.

Coating life depends on the product, how thick it is applied and how well the roof drains. Many coatings last several years to over a decade before they need to be renewed. Regular inspections help you recoat before the roof underneath is exposed.

Many existing roofs can be coated if they are structurally sound and dry. The surface needs cleaning, repairs and sometimes a primer for good adhesion. A roofer can check whether your roof is a good candidate.

Modified bitumen is an asphalt-based roofing material that comes in rolls and is reinforced for strength. It may be torch-applied, cold-applied or self-adhered. It is commonly used on low-slope residential and commercial roofs.

A built-up roof is made of alternating layers of roofing felt and asphalt, often topped with gravel or a cap sheet. It is an older, proven system for flat roofs. Many Arizona buildings still have built-up roofs, some of which have been coated over the years.

A cap sheet is the top layer of some flat roof systems, usually surfaced with granules. It protects the layers below from UV and weather. Cap sheets wear over time and can be repaired or coated.

Alligatoring is a pattern of cracks that develops when asphalt-based roofing dries out and shrinks under UV exposure. It means the surface has aged and lost flexibility. Depending on how deep the cracks go, the roof may be a candidate for repair and coating or for replacement.

Scuppers are openings in a parapet wall that let water drain off a flat roof, and roof drains are openings in the roof surface that carry water through pipes. Both need to stay clear of leaves, dust and debris. Clogged drains are a common cause of ponding and leaks.

Parapet walls leak when stucco cracks, wall caps or coping fail, or the flashing where the wall meets the roof wears out. Water can enter the top or sides of the wall and travel down inside it. Parapets should be checked during every flat roof inspection.

A mil is one-thousandth of an inch, and coating thickness is measured in mils. Thicker coatings generally last longer, and many products specify a minimum thickness. Ask how many mils will be applied when comparing coating estimates.

Flat roofs should be inspected at least once a year, ideally before monsoon season, and after major storms. Regular checks catch clogged drains, cracks and worn coatings early. Commercial roofs often benefit from twice-yearly inspections.

Not necessarily. Flat roofs drain more slowly, so drainage design and maintenance matter more, but a well-built and well-maintained flat roof can perform reliably for many years. Most flat roof leaks trace back to ponding, clogged drains, failed flashing or aged coatings.

A white or light-colored coating is a strong choice for most flat roofs in the Valley because it reflects sunlight and releases absorbed heat. It can lower roof surface temperatures significantly compared to a dark surface. Check HOA rules if the roof is visible from the street.

Coatings can be applied during monsoon season, but they need dry conditions and enough cure time before rain. Roofers watch forecasts closely and may reschedule if storms are expected. Early morning work helps avoid afternoon storms.

Preparation usually includes cleaning the roof, removing loose material, repairing damage and treating seams and penetrations. Some surfaces also need a primer. Good preparation is a big part of how long the coating lasts.

White coatings do collect dust in the desert, which can reduce how much sunlight they reflect. Rain rinses some dirt off, and some coatings stay cleaner than others. Avoid harsh cleaning methods that can damage the coating.

Most Arizona homeowners should have their roof inspected every year or two, and after any major storm. Older roofs and flat roofs benefit from yearly inspections. Spring, before monsoon season, is an especially good time.

A professional roof inspection covers the roofing material, underlayment where visible, flashing, penetrations, valleys, drainage and roof edges. A thorough inspection also includes the attic and any interior signs of leaks. You should come away knowing the roof's condition and any recommended repairs.

Many residential roof inspections take about an hour or two. Larger roofs, multiple roof types and attic access can add time. Commercial inspections usually take longer.

You may not need to be home for an exterior inspection, but someone will need to let the roofer into the attic or show interior stains. Being there also gives you a chance to ask questions. Arrange access when you schedule the visit.

Yes, a roof inspection before buying is a smart step in Arizona. General home inspectors often don't walk tile roofs and can't see underlayment condition. A roofer's inspection can reveal repairs or replacement needs before you close.

Not usually. Home inspectors cover the whole house and often view the roof from the ground, a ladder or a drone. A roofer focuses only on the roof and can evaluate underlayment, flashing and repair needs in more depth.

A roof certification is a statement from a roofer about the roof's condition and expected remaining life, often requested during a home sale. Terms vary by roofer, including how long it covers and what it includes. Ask for the details in writing.

Ask about the roof's overall condition, how much life the underlayment or coating likely has left, and which repairs are urgent versus optional. Ask to see photos of any problems found. It also helps to ask what maintenance would extend the roof's life.

An inspection can find many signs of underlayment damage, but not every square foot can be seen without removing tiles. Roofers check exposed edges, lift sample tiles and look for stains in the attic. Experience helps them judge the condition of what can't be seen directly.

Spring is the best time to inspect a roof in Arizona because it leaves time for repairs before monsoon season starts June 15. Fall is also useful for checking storm damage after the season ends September 30. Any time after a significant storm is worth an inspection too.

Drones can provide useful overview photos of a roof, especially steep or large ones. They can't lift tiles, test soft spots or check the attic. Drone images work best as one part of a full inspection.

In the attic, a roofer looks for water stains, damp insulation, daylight coming through, damaged decking and signs of pests. Ventilation and airflow are checked as well. The attic often shows problems that aren't visible from the roof surface.

Yes, most re-roofs require city inspections as part of the permit process. It's also smart to have a new roof checked after its first monsoon season. That confirms everything performed as expected under real storm conditions.

After an inspection, the roofer should explain what they found and recommend any repairs, maintenance or replacement. You should receive an estimate for recommended work. You can then decide what to do and when.

Yes, a roof inspection can document storm damage with photos and notes. That documentation can help you understand the damage before talking with your insurance adjuster. It also helps separate storm damage from normal wear.

A thorough inspection includes time on the roof when it's safe, a look in the attic, and clear explanations of what was found. Photos of problem areas are a good sign. Be cautious of inspections that take only a few minutes or end with high-pressure sales tactics.

A pre-listing roof inspection is done by a seller before putting a home on the market. It helps the seller find and fix roof issues before a buyer's inspector does. It can reduce surprises and make negotiations smoother.

A moisture survey uses tools such as moisture meters or infrared cameras to find wet insulation or substrate inside a flat roof. It helps determine whether a roof can be coated or recoated or needs replacement. It's especially useful on commercial and foam roofs.

Yes, if your roof hasn't been inspected in several years, schedule one, especially before monsoon season. Small problems like broken tiles or worn sealant can go unnoticed for years. An inspection gives you a baseline and a plan.

Arizona's monsoon season runs from June 15 through September 30. During these months, storms can bring strong winds, heavy rain, dust storms, lightning and occasional hail. Many roof leaks are discovered during this season.

Schedule an inspection in spring, replace broken tiles or missing shingles, and clear gutters, scuppers and roof drains. Trim tree branches that hang over the roof. Secure loose items in the yard that wind could throw against the house.

Monsoon storms can lift shingles, shift or break tiles, tear flashing and throw debris onto roofs. Wind-driven rain can push water into weak spots, and heavy rain can overwhelm flat roof drainage. Hail can crack tiles and damage coatings.

Walk around your home and look for tiles, shingles or debris on the ground. Check ceilings and the attic for new stains or dampness. Take photos of any damage and call a roofer to inspect, without climbing onto the roof yourself.

Use binoculars from the ground to look for displaced tiles, missing shingles, torn flashing or exposed foam. Check your yard for roofing pieces and look in the attic for daylight or water. Leave anything that requires roof access to a professional.

Monsoon thunderstorms can produce sudden gusts strong enough to damage roofs, sometimes exceeding 60 mph. These winds can arrive with little warning. Edges, ridges and loose roofing are the most vulnerable.

A microburst is a sudden, powerful downdraft from a thunderstorm that spreads out when it hits the ground. Microbursts can cause wind damage similar to a small tornado, including lifted roofing and fallen trees. They are a common monsoon hazard in the Valley.

Haboobs, the large dust storms common in monsoon season, often bring strong winds that can loosen roofing and throw debris. The dust also clogs gutters, scuppers and drains just before rain arrives. Checking drainage after a dust storm helps prevent leaks.

Hail is not common in the Phoenix area, but it does happen, usually during monsoon storms. It can crack tiles, bruise shingles and puncture or wear foam roof coatings. If you notice hail, have your roof checked.

Get everyone out of the affected area, and leave the house if you see structural damage, sagging ceilings or electrical hazards. Call 911 if anyone is in danger or power lines are involved. Then contact your insurance company, a tree service and a roofer.

A tarp can protect your home from further water damage until repairs are made. Tarping should be done by professionals, since storm-damaged roofs are dangerous to walk on. Keep receipts for any temporary protection, as insurers often ask for them.

Storm damage should be repaired as soon as practical, because more storms often follow during monsoon season. Many insurance policies also expect homeowners to take reasonable steps to prevent further damage. Delays can turn a small repair into a larger one.

Yes, though it is uncommon, lightning can damage roofing, start fires and harm electrical systems. Signs include scorch marks, broken tiles or damage around chimneys and vents. If your home is struck, have both the roof and electrical system checked.

Move furniture and valuables, use buckets and towels to catch water, and keep away from wet ceilings and electrical fixtures. If water is near outlets or lights, switch off power to that area if you can do so safely. Photograph the damage for your records.

Yes, a fall check after monsoon season ends on September 30 can catch damage you didn't notice during the storms. It's a good time to repair minor issues before winter rains. Fall weather also makes repair work easier.

Yes, dust storms deposit dirt and debris in gutters, scuppers and roof drains. When rain follows, clogged drains can cause overflow and ponding. Clearing drainage after dust storms helps prevent leaks.

Any roof type can perform well in monsoon winds if it's properly installed and maintained. Fastened tile, sealed shingles and seamless foam roofs all resist wind better when they're in good condition. Old or loose roofing is the most likely to be damaged.

Yes, strong gusts can lift tiles, especially at ridges, hips, edges and areas where tiles are loose or poorly fastened. Displaced tiles expose the underlayment to sun and rain. Have shifted tiles reset or replaced promptly.

No, much storm damage can't be seen from the ground. Cracked tiles, lifted flashing and damage to the underlayment may only show up during a close inspection. If a storm was severe, a professional inspection is worth it even if the roof looks fine.

Intense heat and UV break down roofing materials, dry out sealants and make underlayment brittle over time. Daily heating and cooling also cause expansion and contraction that stress flashing and seams. These effects are why Arizona roofs often age faster than roofs in milder climates.

Roof surfaces in a Phoenix summer can reach well over 150 degrees Fahrenheit, especially dark roofs in direct sun. Reflective materials stay noticeably cooler. That surface heat moves into the attic and affects both the roof and your cooling bills.

Arizona attics can exceed 140 degrees Fahrenheit in summer, particularly with poor ventilation. That heat can radiate into living spaces and warm ductwork running through the attic. Ventilation, insulation and reflective roofing all help bring attic temperatures down.

A cool roof is designed to reflect more sunlight and release absorbed heat more readily than a standard roof. Cool roofs can be achieved with reflective coatings, light-colored tile or reflective shingles. They help lower roof and attic temperatures.

Cool roofs can reduce the amount of heat entering a home, which can lower cooling demand. The actual savings depend on insulation, ductwork location and how much of the house sits under the roof. They tend to help most on homes with ducts in the attic or limited insulation.

Lighter colors reflect more sunlight and generally keep roofs and attics cooler. Some darker products include reflective technology that improves their performance. Your HOA may restrict colors, so compare options within its approved list.

Attic ventilation lets hot air escape so it doesn't build up under the roof. That helps protect roofing materials, reduces the load on your air conditioner and limits moisture buildup. Good ventilation needs both intake vents low on the roof and exhaust vents near the top.

Signs include ceilings that feel hot to the touch, upstairs rooms that stay much hotter than downstairs, and an air conditioner that rarely shuts off. On shingle roofs, early curling or blistering can also point to poor ventilation. A roofer can check vent types and sizes.

Common roof vents include ridge vents, low-profile off-ridge vents, gable vents, soffit or eave vents and turbine vents. Powered and solar attic fans are also used. The right combination depends on your roof's design and attic size.

Solar attic fans can help remove hot air from an attic, but results vary. If the attic doesn't have enough intake vents, a fan can pull cooled air from the house through ceiling gaps. A roofer can tell you whether a fan or improved passive ventilation makes more sense.

The bigger problem is usually mixing vent types that interfere with each other. For example, a powered fan near a ridge vent can pull air through the wrong openings. Balanced intake and exhaust is more important than simply adding more vents.

A radiant barrier is a reflective material, often foil, installed in the attic or on roof decking to reduce radiant heat moving into the attic. It can help lower attic temperatures in hot climates like Arizona. It works best when there's an air gap facing the reflective side.

Attic insulation slows heat moving from the hot attic into your living space. Insulation should not block soffit vents, because airflow is needed to remove heat from the attic. Roof ventilation and insulation work best together.

Sealants crack in Arizona because UV breaks them down and daily temperature swings make them expand and contract. As they dry, they shrink and pull away from surfaces. That's why sealant alone isn't a long-term fix for roof leaks.

Thermal shock is stress caused by a sudden temperature change, such as cold monsoon rain hitting a roof heated to well over 100 degrees. Repeated shocks can weaken materials, seams and sealants. It's one of the reasons monsoon storms are hard on roofs.

Solar reflectance index, or SRI, is a number that combines how well a roof reflects sunlight and how well it releases heat. Higher numbers mean a cooler roof surface. It's useful for comparing roofing products and coatings.

The Cool Roof Rating Council is an independent organization that rates roofing products for solar reflectance and thermal emittance. Its ratings let you compare how cool different products stay. Many manufacturers list their products' ratings.

Hot upstairs rooms are often caused by attic heat, poor ventilation, thin insulation or ductwork running through a hot attic. The roof's color and material also play a part. Improving ventilation and insulation often helps more than adjusting the thermostat.

Yes, ducts in a hot attic lose cooling as air travels through them. A cooler roof and better attic ventilation lower attic temperatures, which helps ducts deliver cooler air. Sealing and insulating ducts helps as well.

Yes, UV slowly wears down roof coatings, which is why they are designed to be renewed over time. The coating takes the UV damage so the roof beneath doesn't. Regular inspections help you recoat before the coating wears through.

Do a ground-level roof check in spring and fall, keep gutters and drains clear, and trim trees away from the roof. Schedule professional inspections every year or two. Fixing small issues such as broken tiles or cracked sealant early prevents bigger problems.

Generally, no. Steep roofs, tile roofs and hot or dusty surfaces are dangerous, and walking on tile also breaks it. Check your roof from the ground and the attic, and leave roof access to professionals.

A quick self-check in spring and fall, plus after any strong storm, is a good routine. Look from the ground with binoculars at each roof slope and check the attic for stains or daylight. Take photos of anything unusual to share with a roofer.

With a flashlight, look for water stains, damp insulation, daylight showing through and signs of pests. Step only on framing or walkboards, never on the ceiling drywall between joists. Avoid the attic during the hottest part of the day in summer.

Clean gutters at least before monsoon season and again after it, and more often if trees hang over the roof. Dust storms can also fill gutters quickly. Clogged gutters overflow and send water where it doesn't belong.

Pressure washing is not recommended for tile or shingle roofs. High pressure can crack tile, strip granules from shingles and force water under the roofing. If a roof surface needs cleaning, ask a roofer about safer methods.

Bird stops at the eaves and screening around solar panels are the most effective ways to keep pigeons from nesting. Removing nests and droppings promptly also helps. A roofer or pest specialist can install exclusion products without damaging the roof.

Yes, keep branches trimmed back from the roof. Overhanging limbs scrape roofing, drop debris into valleys and give rodents easy access. Hire a professional tree service for large limbs or any work near power lines.

Debris in valleys can dam water and push it under roofing, so it should be removed. On tile and steep roofs, have a professional do this to avoid broken tiles and falls. Regular tree trimming reduces how often valleys fill up.

Keep roof drains and scuppers clear, watch for ponding after storms and look for cracks or worn coating. Keep foot traffic to a minimum and stay away from roof edges. Schedule regular inspections and recoat when the coating wears thin.

It's best not to patch roof leaks yourself. DIY patches often miss the real source of the leak, and working on a roof is risky. Focus on protecting the interior and call a licensed roofer.

If you must use a ladder for something like checking a gutter on a single-story home, set it on firm, level ground and have someone hold it. Keep three points of contact, don't overreach and never use a ladder in wind or extreme heat. Stay clear of power lines, and don't step off the ladder onto the roof.

Ask anyone who needs roof access, such as satellite, HVAC or pest technicians, to be careful and to tell you if tiles break. After they leave, check the roof from the ground for cracked or shifted tiles. Broken tiles left in place can lead to underlayment damage.

Keep a folder with installation dates, estimates, invoices, inspection reports and photos. These records help with future repairs, insurance claims and selling your home. Dated photos after storms are especially useful.

Yes, rooftop AC and heat pump units can cause problems. Condensate leaks, vibration, failing curb flashing and foot traffic from technicians can all damage the roof around them. Have the area around units checked during inspections.

Yes, some loose granules in the gutters or on the ground are normal after a new shingle roof is installed. Excess granules come loose during manufacturing and installation. Heavy granule loss years later is a different matter and suggests aging.

Don't walk on tile, pressure wash roofing, spread roofing tar over problems, block attic vents or nail decorations into the roof. Each of these can damage the roof or void protections. When in doubt, call a roofer first.

Use plastic clips that attach to gutters or eaves instead of nails or staples. Work from the ground or a properly placed ladder at the eaves, and avoid walking on tile. Remove lights carefully so you don't pull up shingles or edge flashing.

Every mount on the roof creates a penetration that can leak if it isn't sealed and flashed correctly. Wall or eave mounts often avoid roof penetrations altogether. If a roof mount is needed, make sure it's done carefully and checked afterward.

No, gravel on a built-up roof is part of the roofing system and protects it from UV. Removing it can expose and damage the layers beneath. If the gravel has shifted or bare spots appear, have a roofer evaluate it.

Look for droppings in the attic, chewed vents or wiring, and gaps at eaves or under tiles. You may hear scratching at night. Roof rats are common in parts of the Valley, so seal entry points and address the roof openings they use.

Every roof is different, so the cost depends on size, pitch, material, how many layers need removal, decking condition and access. A written estimate based on an inspection of your roof is the only reliable way to know. Our Roofing Cost Guide at /resources/roofing-cost-guide/ explains the main factors.

The biggest factors are roof size, slope, material, the number of penetrations, decking repairs and how much old roofing must be removed. Permits, HOA requirements and access to the roof also matter. Our Roofing Cost Guide at /resources/roofing-cost-guide/ covers these in more detail.

Repair costs vary widely depending on the cause of the problem and how much needs to be fixed. Replacing a few tiles is very different from replacing underlayment on an entire slope. Every roof is different, so an estimate after an inspection gives you a clear number.

Yes, financing is available for roofing projects. Ask about it during your estimate so we can explain the options. Terms and approval depend on the lender and your application.

A written estimate should describe the scope of work, materials and underlayment type, tear-off and disposal, decking repair pricing, permits and cleanup. It should also list the payment schedule, warranty information and the contractor's ROC license number. Clear estimates make it easier to compare roofers.

Estimates vary because roofers may propose different scopes, materials, underlayment grades and decking allowances. Some include items like permits or vent replacement and others don't. Comparing line by line usually explains the difference.

Not always. A low price may leave out important items, use lower-grade materials or come from a contractor without proper licensing and insurance. Compare scope, materials and the contractor's track record, not just the bottom line.

Material and labor costs change, so most estimates are valid for a limited time. Check the date and any expiration noted on the estimate. If time has passed, ask whether the price is still current.

A re-felt involves carefully removing, stacking and reinstalling heavy tiles, which takes significant labor. A shingle roof replacement uses new materials but less handling of existing ones. Every roof is different, so compare actual estimates for your home.

Yes, steeper roofs generally cost more because they take longer to work on and require additional safety measures. Complex roofs with many valleys, hips and penetrations add time as well. Low-slope roofs have their own cost factors related to drainage and coatings.

Sometimes, mostly from damaged decking that can't be seen until the old roofing is removed. A good estimate explains how hidden damage will be handled and priced. Ask about this before signing so there are no surprises.

Be cautious about paying the full amount before work starts. A reasonable deposit and a clear payment schedule tied to the job's progress are common. Get the payment terms in writing.

Repairs cost less in the short term, but frequent repairs on a worn-out roof can add up. If the roof is near the end of its life, replacement can be the better long-term value. An inspection helps you compare the two options honestly.

In many cases, coating a sound flat roof costs less than replacing it and can extend its life. Coatings only make sense when the existing roof is dry and in good enough condition. Every roof is different, so an inspection determines whether coating is an option.

Many roofers include permit costs in their estimates, but not all do. Check whether the estimate lists the permit and who is responsible for pulling it. Ask if it isn't clear.

Know your roof's age and type, and have it inspected to estimate how much life is left. That gives you time to set aside funds or explore financing. Planning ahead also lets you schedule work outside monsoon season.

A roofing square is 100 square feet of roof area. Roofers often measure and price roofing work by the square. A roof's square count is usually larger than the home's floor area because of slope and overhangs.

A phone call can give you a general idea of the process, but an accurate estimate requires seeing the roof. Roof size, pitch, condition and materials all affect the price. Call us at 602-548-3770 to schedule an estimate.

Roofing material prices change with supply, demand, manufacturing costs and transportation. Large storm seasons in other parts of the country can also affect availability. That's one reason estimates have expiration dates.

Tax rules change often, and a standard roof replacement generally doesn't qualify for most energy tax credits. Related items, such as solar systems, have had separate rules. Ask a tax professional about your situation.

Financing typically requires an application and credit approval through the lender. Terms, rates and requirements vary. Ask about financing during your estimate so you can review the options before deciding.

You can look up any contractor on the Arizona Registrar of Contractors website at roc.az.gov. Search by license number or business name to confirm the license is active, see its classification and check for complaints. Our license is ROC #096629.

Roofers in Arizona should hold a license from the Registrar of Contractors with a roofing classification. Residential roofing falls under R-42, commercial under C-42, and a dual license is CR-42. Check the classification on roc.az.gov to make sure it fits your project.

Licensed contractors are accountable to the Arizona Registrar of Contractors, which handles complaints and enforces standards. Eligible homeowners who hire licensed residential contractors may also have access to the state's Residential Contractors' Recovery Fund. Unlicensed contractors offer none of these protections.

A roofing contractor should carry general liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage for its employees. Ask for current certificates of insurance before work begins. Without coverage, you could face costs if someone is injured or property is damaged.

Ask for their ROC license number, proof of insurance, how long they've been in business and who will do the work. Ask what the estimate includes, what warranty applies and how hidden damage will be handled. Also ask how they'll protect your property and clean up.

Red flags include no license, pressure to sign immediately, cash-only payment, large up-front payments and vague verbal estimates. Be cautious with door-to-door sellers after storms and anyone who offers to cover your insurance deductible. A legitimate roofer will give you time and a written estimate.

A storm chaser is a contractor, often from out of state, who follows storms and goes door to door offering roof work. Some do poor work or leave before problems appear, making warranties hard to use. Verify any roofer's Arizona license and local address before hiring.

Getting more than one estimate is reasonable for larger projects. It helps you understand the scope of work and fair pricing. Compare estimates on the same scope and materials so the comparison is meaningful.

Yes, always get a written contract before work begins. It should describe the scope, materials, price, payment schedule, timeline and warranty information. A written agreement protects both you and the contractor.

Ask about both the manufacturer's material warranty and the contractor's workmanship warranty. Find out how long each lasts, what they cover, whether they transfer to a new owner and what could void them. Get warranty terms in writing.

Yes. Offering to cover or waive your deductible can amount to insurance fraud and may put you at risk. It can also signal that the contractor plans to inflate the claim. Avoid contractors who make this offer.

Be careful. Some door-to-door roofers are legitimate, but storm chasers often use this approach. Verify the license on roc.az.gov, ask for a local address and references, and don't sign anything on the spot.

Arizona has a limited handyman exemption for small jobs, generally under $1,000 including labor and materials and not requiring a permit. Roof work often goes beyond that, and a licensed roofer is accountable to the Registrar of Contractors. For anything more than a minor repair, hire a licensed roofing contractor.

Read online reviews, ask for references from recent local jobs and check the ROC website for complaints. Years in business and a local office are also good signs. Consistent feedback over time tells you more than a handful of reviews.

A local roofer understands Valley weather, city requirements and common HOA rules. They're also nearby if you need warranty service or future repairs. Local roofers depend on their reputation in the community.

Licensed means the contractor holds an active license from the Arizona Registrar of Contractors. Bonded means a surety bond is in place as required for the license. Insured means the contractor carries liability and workers' compensation coverage.

Yes, asking for references from recent jobs in your area is a good idea. Ask past customers about communication, cleanup and how problems were handled. You can also drive by finished roofs to see the work.

Contact the roofer first and explain the problem clearly, keeping notes and copies of any written communication. If it isn't resolved, you can file a complaint with the Arizona Registrar of Contractors. Keep your contract, payment records and photos.

Some roofing companies use subcontractors and others use their own crews. Ask who will actually be working on your roof and whether they are licensed and insured. The contractor you hire should be responsible for the work either way.

Compare the scope of work, roofing material, underlayment type, decking allowances, ventilation and flashing details. Check whether permits, disposal and cleanup are included. Then look at warranty terms and the contractor's license and insurance.

Many Arizona HOAs require architectural approval before a roof replacement, especially if the material or color will change. Some require approval even for a like-for-like replacement. Check your CC&Rs and design guidelines before scheduling work.

Contact your HOA or management company and request an architectural review application. You'll typically provide the roofing material, manufacturer, color name and sometimes a sample or photo. Your roofer can give you the product details you need.

HOA approval can take anywhere from a few days to several weeks, depending on how often the architectural committee meets. Plan ahead, especially if you want to finish before monsoon season. Start the request as soon as you've chosen your roofing materials.

Yes, many HOAs limit roof colors to an approved palette to keep a consistent look in the neighborhood. Your new tile may need to match the original or come from the approved list. Ask your HOA for its current options.

If your original tile is discontinued, your HOA may approve a similar color from a current product line. Some communities have already approved replacements. Ask your HOA before ordering materials.

Generally, yes. Roof replacements in Gilbert, Mesa, Chandler and most Valley cities require a building permit. Your licensed roofer typically pulls the permit, but confirm current requirements with the city.

Small roof repairs usually don't require a permit, but larger repairs may, depending on the city and the size of the area involved. Each city sets its own thresholds. Check with your city or ask your roofer.

In most cases, the licensed roofing contractor pulls the permit for the job. That makes the contractor responsible for meeting code and passing inspections. Be wary of a contractor who asks you to pull the permit yourself.

City inspectors check that the work meets building code, which may include the decking, underlayment and fastening before roofing goes on, plus a final inspection. Inspection timing varies by city and roof type. Passing inspections closes out the permit.

Unpermitted roof work can cause problems when you sell your home, file an insurance claim or deal with the city. You may be required to get a permit after the fact or have work inspected or redone. Using a licensed roofer who pulls permits avoids these issues.

Arizona law generally limits HOAs from prohibiting solar energy devices, though they may set reasonable rules about placement and appearance. Requirements vary by community. This isn't legal advice, so review your HOA documents and ask a professional if you have questions.

No, HOA approval and city permits are separate. The HOA reviews appearance and community standards, while the city enforces building codes. Most roof replacements need both.

Yes, many HOAs require specific materials, such as concrete or clay tile, for sloped roofs. Some also restrict tile profiles and colors. Review your design guidelines before choosing a new roof.

HOAs commonly ask for the roofing material type, manufacturer, product line, color name and a sample or photo. Some also want the contractor's name and license number. Having this information ready can speed up approval.

It's not usually required, but it's considerate to let neighbors know about noise, dumpsters and trucks. Your HOA may have rules about work hours and where materials can be placed. A heads-up helps keep relations good.

Many HOAs set rules for construction hours, dumpster placement and how long materials can sit in a driveway or on the street. Check your HOA's guidelines and share them with your roofer. Following the rules helps avoid violation notices.

Many HOA CC&Rs require homeowners to keep their homes in good repair, including visible roof damage. If damage is visible from the street, you may receive a notice. Check your CC&Rs for maintenance requirements.

Building codes set minimum requirements for underlayment, fastening and flashing, based on the code each city has adopted. Manufacturers may have additional requirements. Your roofer should install a system that meets both.

Homes in Phoenix historic districts may need historic preservation review before changes to the roof's appearance or materials. Requirements depend on the district and the project. Check with the City of Phoenix before planning work.

A recoat or coating on an existing roof often doesn't require a permit, but a new foam roof or full replacement usually does. Requirements vary by city and scope. Confirm with your city or roofer before work begins.

Homeowners insurance often covers sudden, accidental roof damage, such as damage from wind, hail or a falling tree. It typically doesn't cover normal wear, aging or lack of maintenance. Read your policy and talk with your insurer about your specific coverage.

It depends on what caused the leak. If a covered event such as wind damage let water in, the resulting interior damage may be covered, while leaks from aging or wear generally aren't. Your policy and insurer decide what's covered, so report the damage and ask.

Take dated photos and video of the damage, including any debris, broken tiles or shingles on the ground and interior stains. Write down when the storm happened and what you noticed. Keep receipts for any temporary repairs or protection.

Contact your insurer promptly to report the damage, since many policies have notice requirements. A roofer's inspection can help you understand the damage and the scope of repairs. You can do both quickly and in either order.

An insurance adjuster inspects the damage on behalf of the insurance company and estimates what the policy will pay. They review the cause of damage and your coverage. Ask questions if anything in their report is unclear.

Many insurers allow a contractor to be present during the adjuster's inspection. A roofer can point out damage and explain what repairs involve. Ask your insurer if you'd like to arrange this.

Actual cash value coverage pays the value of the damaged roof minus depreciation for age and wear. Replacement cost coverage pays to repair or replace it with similar materials, though some policies hold back part of the payment until work is done. Your policy declarations show which coverage you have.

A deductible is the amount you pay before insurance coverage applies. Some policies have separate deductibles for wind or hail, sometimes calculated as a percentage of the home's insured value. Check your policy to see which applies.

Insurers typically pay to repair the damaged area, not the entire roof, unless the damage is widespread or repairs aren't practical. Matching issues with discontinued materials can affect the decision. Your policy and the adjuster's evaluation determine the outcome.

Insurers may deny or reduce claims if they believe damage was caused by age, wear or prior conditions rather than a covered event. Roof age also affects actual cash value payments. Inspection records and maintenance history can help show the roof's condition before the storm.

Read the denial letter to understand the reason, and ask your insurer to explain anything unclear. You can request a reinspection, provide additional documentation or appeal the decision. For complex disputes, consider talking with a licensed public adjuster or an attorney.

Many policies expect you to take reasonable steps to prevent further damage, such as having a roof tarped. Photograph the damage first and keep receipts for any temporary work. Avoid permanent repairs until your insurer has had a chance to inspect, unless they tell you otherwise.

Deadlines for reporting damage and filing a claim depend on your policy. Some require prompt notice after damage occurs. Report damage as soon as you can and check your policy for specific time limits.

It might, depending on your insurer, your claims history and the type of claim. Weather-related claims are sometimes treated differently from others. Ask your insurance agent how a claim could affect your premium.

Some insurers have guidelines about roof age or condition and may require an inspection, change coverage or decline to renew. Rules vary by company. Ask your agent about your insurer's requirements before renewal time.

A public adjuster is a licensed professional you can hire to represent you in an insurance claim. They usually charge a percentage of the claim payment. They can be helpful for large or disputed claims.

A roofer can document damage, provide a repair estimate and explain the scope of work. Negotiating a claim on your behalf is generally the role of a licensed public adjuster or attorney. This is general information, not legal advice.

Helpful records include your roof's installation date, past inspection reports, repair invoices and before-and-after photos. Storm dates and photos taken right after the damage are also useful. Keep these in one place so they're easy to find.

Ordinance or law coverage helps pay the extra costs of bringing repairs up to current building codes. Without it, code-required upgrades may not be covered. Check your policy or ask your agent whether you have it.

An assignment of benefits transfers some of your insurance claim rights to a contractor. Read any such agreement carefully and understand what you're giving up before signing. Consider getting legal advice, since this is not legal advice.

If your roof or its underlayment is close to the end of its life, it's usually wise to replace it before installing solar. Solar systems are designed to last many years, and removing panels later for roof work adds cost and time. A roof inspection before solar installation helps you decide.

A solar detach and reset is the process of removing solar panels so roof work can be done, then reinstalling them afterward. It's common during re-felts and roof replacements. The panels are disconnected, stored safely and reinstalled when the roof work is complete.

Solar panels should be removed and reinstalled by a qualified solar contractor. Check with your solar company first, since removal by others may affect its warranty. The roofer and solar contractor then coordinate timing.

Yes, solar installations can lead to leaks if mounts aren't properly flashed or tiles were broken during installation. Each mounting point is a roof penetration. Having the roof checked after installation helps catch problems early.

On tile roofs, solar mounts are typically attached through the decking with flashed mounts, and tiles at those points are modified or replaced. Some systems use replacement tile mounts designed to shed water. Careful installation protects both the tiles and the underlayment.

Small repairs near the edges of an array are sometimes possible, but access under panels is limited. Larger repairs, such as underlayment replacement, usually require removing the panels. A roofer can tell you what's needed after an inspection.

The shaded space under solar panels is sheltered and attractive to pigeons. Their nests and droppings can damage the roof, clog drainage and create a mess. Mesh critter guards around the array help keep birds out.

Solar installation can crack tiles if installers walk on them or handle them carelessly. Broken tiles under or near panels may go unnoticed. Ask for broken tiles to be replaced and have the roof inspected after installation.

Ideally, your roof should have many years of life left before solar is installed. If the underlayment or roofing is likely to need replacement within the solar system's lifespan, consider doing the roof first. An inspection gives you a realistic estimate.

On foam roofs, solar is attached with properly sealed mounts or set on ballasted racking. Attachments need to be flashed and coated to keep water out. Plan any needed recoat before the panels go on.

Yes, flat roofs often use tilted racks that are either attached to the roof or held down with ballast. Drainage paths and roof weight capacity need to be considered. Keeping the roof in good shape before installation is important.

Yes, an inspection after solar installation can catch broken tiles, unsealed penetrations or debris left behind. It's easier to fix these early. Keep the inspection report with your solar paperwork.

Solar panels shade the roof underneath, which can reduce UV exposure. However, they also trap debris and give birds a place to nest. The roof under panels still needs periodic checks.

It can. Some solar warranties require that only approved contractors remove or reinstall panels. Check your solar warranty and contact your solar company before scheduling roof work.

Detach and reset adds time because the solar company has to schedule removal and reinstallation around the roof work. Depending on their availability, this can add days or weeks. Plan early, especially before monsoon season.

Yes, roof work around solar has to be timed with your solar company's removal and reinstallation. We'll plan the roofing work around when your solar contractor can take the panels down and put them back. Contact your solar company early to get on their schedule.

Solar panels add weight, typically a few pounds per square foot, which most roofs can handle. The weight is spread across mounting points. Flat roofs with ballasted systems carry more weight and should be evaluated first.

Yes, once the panels are removed, the roof under them gets the same new underlayment and tile work as the rest of the roof. This area often benefits because it's been hard to inspect. The panels go back on after the roofing is done.

Solar panels attached to your home may be covered under your homeowners policy, depending on the policy. Leased systems may be covered by the leasing company instead. Tell your insurer about your solar system and ask how it's covered.

No, avoid climbing on the roof to clean panels, especially on tile. Rinse lightly from the ground if your solar company allows it, or hire a professional panel cleaner. Walking on the roof can break tiles and lead to falls.

We provide commercial roof repairs, inspections, maintenance, foam roofing, recoats, elastomeric coatings, flat roofs and sloped commercial roofs. We work on tile and shingle roofs on commercial buildings as well. Call 602-548-3770 to talk about your property.

Commercial buildings in Arizona commonly use spray foam roofs, built-up roofs, modified bitumen and single-ply membranes, often with reflective coatings. Sloped commercial buildings may have tile or shingles. The right system depends on the building's structure, use and budget.

Commercial roofs should be inspected at least twice a year, typically in spring and fall, and after major storms. Regular inspections catch drainage problems and damage early. They also help with budgeting and warranty requirements.

Yes, many commercial roofs can be recoated if the existing roof is dry and structurally sound. A moisture survey may be used to find wet areas that need replacement first. Recoating can extend the roof's life with less disruption to the building.

Reflective coatings lower roof surface temperatures, which can reduce cooling loads. They also protect the roof from UV and can extend its life. Coating projects often cause less disruption than tear-offs.

In most cases, yes. Roofing work can often be scheduled around business hours, with attention to noise, odors, parking and safe access. Discuss your operations with your roofer during planning.

Common causes include rooftop equipment, failed flashing at penetrations, ponding water, clogged drains and parapet walls. Foot traffic from service technicians can also damage the roof. Regular maintenance targets these problem areas.

HVAC units sit on curbs that need flashing, and condensate lines and drain pans can leak. Technicians walking to and from units can damage the roof surface. Inspecting around units during routine maintenance helps prevent leaks.

A maintenance plan typically includes scheduled inspections, clearing drains and scuppers, sealing small problems and documenting the roof's condition. It helps prevent leaks and plan for future work. We can set up regular maintenance visits for your property.

Responsibility depends on the lease. Some leases make the landlord responsible for the roof, while others pass maintenance to the tenant. Review your lease to see who handles repairs.

Yes, commercial roofing in Arizona requires a commercial roofing classification, such as C-42, or a dual classification such as CR-42. Residential-only licenses don't cover commercial work. Check the contractor's classification at roc.az.gov.

Commercial roof life depends on the system, installation and maintenance. Coated and foam roofs can last a long time when recoated on schedule, while other systems vary. Regular inspections help you get the full life from your roof.

Yes, large commercial roofs can sometimes be replaced or recoated in phases to spread out costs and limit disruption. The phases must be planned so each section ties in properly. An inspection helps decide which areas need attention first.

Tapered insulation is insulation board cut at a slight slope to direct water toward drains or scuppers. It's used to improve drainage on flat roofs. It also adds insulation value to the roof.

Start with a professional inspection to estimate remaining roof life and identify needed repairs. Use that information to plan capital expenses over several years. Every roof is different, so see our Roofing Cost Guide at /resources/roofing-cost-guide/ for cost factors.

Often, yes. HOA facilities, apartment buildings and multifamily properties are usually handled as commercial projects. Requirements depend on the building and city codes.

Property managers should keep inspection reports, photos, repair invoices, warranties and contractor insurance certificates. These records help with budgeting, insurance and warranty claims. They also make it easier to brief new owners or managers.

Commercial roof work must follow fall protection and other workplace safety rules. Roof access points, edges and skylights need special attention. Property managers should limit roof access to trained personnel.

Give tenants advance notice, schedule noisy work at appropriate times and plan parking and access around the project. Keep a clear point of contact for questions. Good communication prevents most complaints.

Yes, skylights can be a fall hazard because they may not support a person's weight. They should be protected with screens or guards when people work nearby. Skylights also need regular checks for leaks around their curbs.

Flashing is metal or membrane material installed where the roof meets walls, chimneys, vents, skylights and valleys. It directs water away from joints that would otherwise leak. Flashing failures are one of the most common causes of roof leaks.

Flashing often fails where the roof meets a wall, around chimneys and skylights, in valleys and around pipes. Sun, heat cycles and movement loosen it over time. Sealant at flashing edges also breaks down.

A pipe boot, also called a pipe jack, is a flashing piece that seals around plumbing vent pipes. Many have rubber collars that crack in Arizona sun. Cracked boots are a common and fixable leak source.

Counter flashing is a piece of flashing that overlaps the base flashing where the roof meets a wall or chimney. It sheds water over the top of the base flashing. It's often tucked into stucco or masonry.

Step flashing is a series of small, bent flashing pieces installed along the side of a wall where it meets a sloped roof. Each piece overlaps the one below, layered with the roofing. It helps direct water away from the wall joint.

A cricket is a small, peaked structure built behind a chimney or other obstruction to divert water around it. Without one, water can pool and leak. Crickets are also used on flat roofs to direct water toward drains.

Soffits are the panels under the roof overhang, and fascia is the board along the roof edge. Soffits often contain vents for attic airflow. Fascia supports gutters and protects the roof edge.

Fascia rots when water gets behind gutters or flashing and soaks the wood. In Arizona, sun also breaks down paint quickly, exposing wood to moisture. Keeping paint and drip edge in good shape protects it.

Many Arizona homes don't have gutters, but they can be useful. Gutters help protect entryways, patios, foundations and landscaping from roof runoff. They're especially helpful where runoff causes erosion or splashes against walls.

Five-inch gutters are common on homes, while six-inch gutters handle more water from large roofs or steep slopes. Monsoon downpours can overwhelm undersized gutters. Downspout size and placement matter as much as gutter size.

Gutters overflow when they're clogged with debris or dust, undersized for the roof area, or have too few downspouts. Monsoon storms drop large amounts of water quickly. Cleaning before the season and adding downspouts can help.

Downspout extensions carry water away from your foundation and walls. Without them, water can soak soil next to the house and cause problems. Aim to discharge water several feet away from the home.

Yes, skylights can leak through failed flashing, worn seals or cracked lenses. Condensation can also look like a leak. A roofer can check whether the problem is the skylight itself or the roof around it.

A roof replacement is a good time to remove, replace or keep a skylight. Old or leaky skylights can be removed and the opening decked over. If you want to keep the light, replacing the skylight during the roof work avoids disturbing the new roof later.

A tubular skylight is a small dome on the roof connected to a reflective tube that brings daylight into a room. It requires a smaller roof opening than a traditional skylight. Like any penetration, it needs proper flashing.

Roof decking, or sheathing, is the layer of plywood or OSB attached to the roof framing. Underlayment and roofing are installed on top of it. Damaged decking must be replaced so the new roof has a solid base.

Underlayment is a water-resistant layer installed over the roof decking and beneath the roofing material. It protects the home from water that gets past the top layer. On tile roofs, the underlayment is the main waterproofing barrier.

A ridge is the top line where two roof slopes meet, and a hip is an outward-facing sloped edge where slopes meet. A valley is the inward angle where two slopes meet and water collects. Each needs specific flashing and roofing details.

A roof penetration is anything that goes through the roof, such as plumbing vents, exhaust fans, skylights, chimneys and solar mounts. Each penetration needs flashing to keep water out. Penetrations are common leak points.

A dead valley is an area where water collects because two roof sections or a roof and wall meet without a clear path for drainage. These spots often leak. They need careful flashing and sometimes a cricket to direct water away.

Plastic roof vents can become brittle in the Arizona sun, and storms can crack or dent them. Their flashing can also fail over time. Damaged vents should be replaced to prevent leaks and pests.

The rake is the sloped edge of a roof that runs from the eave to the ridge, usually at a gable end. It needs edge flashing or trim to protect against wind and water. On tile roofs, rake tiles cover this edge.

Roof-to-wall joints leak when step flashing, headwall flashing or counter flashing fails or wasn't installed correctly. Cracked stucco above the joint can also let water in. These joints are common in Arizona homes with multiple rooflines.

The eave is the lower edge of the roof that usually overhangs the walls. It helps shed water away from the house and provides shade. Eaves often include vents, bird stops on tile roofs and gutters.

Call us at 602-548-3770; phone is the only way to reach us. If we don't answer, leave a message and we'll return your call within 24 hours. We're happy to answer questions and schedule an estimate.

Our office is open Monday to Friday, 7 am to 5 pm, and closed Saturday and Sunday. Call 602-548-3770 during those hours. If we don't answer, leave a message and we'll return your call within 24 hours.

Leave a message with your name, phone number and a short description of your roofing issue. If we don't answer, leave a message and we'll return your call within 24 hours. We don't have a separate line outside office hours.

Our office is at 16308 E Fairview St, Gilbert, AZ 85295. It's our only office. Call 602-548-3770 before stopping by.

We serve Gilbert, Mesa, Chandler, Queen Creek, San Tan Valley, Tempe, Phoenix, Scottsdale, Apache Junction, Ahwatukee, Glendale and Peoria. If you're near one of these cities, call 602-548-3770 to ask about your location. If we don't answer, leave a message and we'll return your call within 24 hours.

Yes, we're licensed with the Arizona Registrar of Contractors under ROC #096629. We're also bonded and insured. You can verify our license at roc.az.gov.

We've been family owned and operated since 1993. Over that time we've completed more than 2,500 projects. Learn more on our /about-us/ page.

Yes, Integrity Roofing is family owned and operated. We've served Arizona homeowners and businesses since 1993. Our office is in Gilbert.

We offer roof repairs and maintenance, roof inspections, roof replacement and re-roofing, tile underlayment replacement, and storm and monsoon damage repair. We also install and recoat foam roofs, apply elastomeric coatings and work on flat roofs. We serve both residential and commercial customers.

We work on concrete and clay tile, asphalt shingles, spray foam, flat roofs, coated roofs and sloped roofs. If you're not sure what kind of roof you have, describe it when you call. We'll tell you whether it's a roof we work on.

Have your address, the type of roof if you know it, and a short description of the problem or project ready. It also helps to know the roof's approximate age and whether you have an HOA or solar panels. Photos of interior stains or storm damage are useful to have on hand for the estimate visit.

Yes, we provide a written estimate that describes the scope of work for your roof. Review it, ask questions and compare it with others before you decide. Ask about financing during the estimate if you'd like to hear the options.

Call us at 602-548-3770 to schedule an estimate. If we don't answer, leave a message and we'll return your call within 24 hours. Every roof is different, so we'll look at yours before giving you a price.

Yes, we repair storm and monsoon damage, including displaced tiles, missing shingles, damaged flashing and leaks. Call 602-548-3770 after a storm. If we don't answer, leave a message and we'll return your call within 24 hours.

Yes, we work in HOA communities across our service area. We can provide the product, manufacturer and color details your architectural committee usually asks for. It's best to start the HOA approval process early.

Yes, our service area includes Phoenix, Glendale and Peoria. We also serve Scottsdale, Tempe, Ahwatukee and the East Valley. Call 602-548-3770 to schedule.

Yes, Queen Creek, San Tan Valley and Apache Junction are all part of our service area. They're close to our Gilbert office. Call 602-548-3770 to schedule an estimate.

We can inspect your roof, document storm damage and provide a repair estimate you can share with your insurer. We don't give legal advice or act as a public adjuster. Your insurer decides what your policy covers.

You can see examples of our projects on our /gallery/ page. Customer feedback is on our /reviews/ page. Both give a sense of the work we do across the Valley.

Our /resources/ page and /resources/library/ have more guides for Arizona homeowners. The Roofing Cost Guide at /resources/roofing-cost-guide/ explains what affects roofing prices. You can also call 602-548-3770 with questions.